Banarasi Silk

The Banarasi saree, woven in Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh, is the principal bridal silk of North India and the counterpart to the Kanjeevaram tradition of the south. Ashelby International supplies Banarasi sarees for bridal, festival and luxury retail programmes.

Our Banarasi sarees are woven in silk with zari at 120 to 220 GSM, in brocade construction with floral and Mughal-inspired motifs. Brocade is the defining technique: supplementary weft threads are woven in to create raised patterning across the surface, rather than the pattern being printed or embroidered afterwards. The density of that supplementary weft is what produces the characteristic richness -- and what drives both the weight and the weaving time.

The motif vocabulary reflects the tradition's Mughal-era origins: floral and foliate patterns, the kalga and bel paisley forms, and jhallar borders of upright leaves. Heavily brocaded pieces can take weeks on the loom, which is the principal reason genuine handwoven Banarasi commands its price relative to power loom reproductions of similar appearance.

Banarasi brocade holds Geographical Indication registration, restricting the name to pieces produced in the designated region. Where a buyer requires certified-origin handwoven pieces rather than power loom production, this should be stated explicitly at enquiry -- the two differ substantially in price and lead time. Typical applications include North Indian weddings, festivals, bridal wear and luxury events.